Here in the countryside, her subjects love her.
Shop window display in Cumbria |
Every small town weâve walked through has been decorated for the Jubilee. Thatâs not with big-box generic dĂ©cor, either, although there are Jubilee flags and bunting everywhere. Every little shop window and many, many front gardens sport tributes from the heartâhandmade signs, memorabilia from the Coronation, and many, many teacups of the kind your grandmother collected.
A laundromat in Haltwhistle, Cumbria |
It's not my country, sheâs not my Queen, but the sentiment chokes me up. This is Englandâs famous red wall, the Labour heartland that went Conservative in the last election. In other words, itâs in political flux. There are both conservative and workingmenâs pubs in these villages, but none of that touches the Jubilee. The Queen truly transcends politics in a way Americans donât understand. This Jubilee is her celebration.
Every pub is decorated for the Jubilee. |
I am an unabashed fan of the Queen. She reminds me of my mother and all the women of her generationâstoic, composed, hardworking, redoubtable and dignified. I miss them, terribly.
The Jubilee is tied with memories of WW2, which are made more poignant by the current Ukraine war. |
The Washington Post opined recently that the Queen should retire. We Americans are not entitled to an opinion (something we should practice saying regularly about a whole host of things). The British monarchy has had no impact on America for 250 years. Any road, the question of whether sheâs âfitâ for the role is absurd. The modern monarchy is largely her creation, and for all we know sheâll keep on defining it.
The Queen Bee and her subject bees in Gilsland. |
I will be in Yorkshire for the Jubilee celebrations proper, but there could be no better place to observe them than right here in Brampton, Cumbriaâor any of the other little villages weâve passed through. There will be prayer vigils and parties for the old people. Tomorrow night, there will be beacons lit across England, including along Hadrianâs Wall. These will range from âprivate bonfires to full-blown spectaculars with fireworks, choirs, pipers, and buglers.â
The Queen's corgis in a large yarn-bomb in Brampton, Cumbria. |
Iâve been to Britain before, but always to big cities or World Heritage Sites. This time, Iâm waiting out the rain in country bus stops and drinking in rural pubs. This England is to London as Pecos, NM is to New York. I had breakfast yesterday with a Shropshire farmer. We discussed the labor shortage, just as I might with my Maine neighbor.
In the window of an Indian restaurant in Brampton. |
Two nights ago, we stayed at The Centre of Britain in Haltwhistle. Itâs in a stone building that wraps around a 15th century Border Reivers' Pele Tower. Itâs ridiculously atmospheric, and itâs for sale for a fraction of the price of a boutique inn in Maine. Youâd have to deal with muddy boots, but if you want to throw over your current life for one in a small English village, email the proprietors here. The beer, I promise you, is very, very good.
Many people have pulled out treasured memorabilia from the Coronation in 1952. |