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Levitating lobster boat, and an unsalvageable ghost ship

"Working boats, Bay of Fundy,",Carol L. Douglas.

ā€œWorking boats, Bay of Fundy,ā€Carol L. Douglas.
In the Canadian Maritimes, boats are sometimes left to rest on mudflats as the tide drops. Occasionally Iā€™ll see that here in mid-coast Maine, but nowhere near as frequently. Itā€™s something that interests me, and Iā€™ve painted it before, in Rising Tide at Wadsworth Cove.
On the last day of my Trans-Canada adventure, I painted two working boats resting in the Bay of Fundy. This painting was, I thought, unsalvageableā€”the only one I did on that trip that I couldnā€™t redeem.  I had spent considerable time drafting, only to realize after I finished that the boat in the back appeared to be levitating.
My lobster boat appears to levitate here, too.
My lobster boat appears to levitate here, too.
Yesterday I realized that the boat seems to be levitating in my reference photo, too. I spent considerable time repainting the foreground to anchor it, only to conclude that the lobster boat is still floating. I have concluded that levitation is just a Canadian reality.
Fundy Ghost is the name of the foreground trawler, and itā€™s an odd choice. This nickname is sometimes applied to the most famous ghost ship of all time, the Mary Celeste. She was launched as Amazon in 1861 from a shipyard on Spencerā€™s Island in Nova Scotia. On her maiden voyage, her captain fell ill and died. She suffered a collision in the narrows off Eastport and rammed and sank a brig in the English Channel. In 1867, she was wrecked off Cape Breton Island and sold as salvage to an American. He went broke in the process of restoring her.
The Mary Celeste painted as the Amazon, 1861, by an unknown artist.

The Mary Celeste painted as the Amazon, 1861, by an unknown artist.
After a major refit, the Mary Celeste headed from New York to Genoa, Italy, under the command of Captain Benjamin Briggs. Briggs was an experienced sailor, an abstemious Christian, and a married man. He brought his wife and infant daughter along on the trip, leaving his school-aged son with relatives. His crew were all experienced sailors of good character.
Eight days after Mary Celeste left harbor, a Nova Scotian boat named Dei Gratiafollowed her out along the same route. Midway between the Azores and Portugal, it came upon the Mary Celeste moving erratically under partially-set sails. The ship was deserted, the binnacle damaged and the lazar and fore hatches left open. The small yawl that served as the boatā€™s lifeboat was missing. Everything pointed to an orderly emergency departure, but the Briggs family and crew were never heard from again.
With great difficulty, Dei Gratia brought the Mary Celeste into Gibraltar. Salvage hearings found no evidence of piracy, fraud, or foul play.
Eventually, Mary Celeste returned to New York, where her bad reputation caught up with her. After rotting on the docks until 1874, she went into the West Indies trade.  She regularly lost money. In 1879, her captain, Edgar Tuthill, fell ill and died in Saint Helena.
"Rising Tide at Wadsworth Cove," Carol L. Douglas

ā€œRising Tide at Wadsworth Cove,ā€ Carol L. Douglas
In 1884, a group of Boston shippers filled the Mary Celeste with junk and heavily insured her. Her captain, Gilman C. Parker, deliberately ran her aground in Haiti. Parker made the mistake of selling the salvage rights for $500 to the American consul, who promptly reported that the cargo was, in fact, worthless. The conspirators in Boston were arrested. Parker was additionally charged with the capital crime of barratry. He died three months later, the last victim of the cursed ghost ship of the Bay of Fundy.

Algonquin mystery

"Algonquin Rocks," by Carol L. Douglas. I was  most interested in the flaming soft maples. Lakes? I've seen a few this trip.

ā€œAlgonquin Rocks,ā€ by Carol L. Douglas. I was most interested in the flaming soft maples. Lakes? Iā€™ve seen a few this trip.
One of the enduring mysteries of the art world is how Canadaā€™s great artist, Tom Thomson, age 39 and an experienced guide and woodsman, died on Canoe Lake in Algonquin Provincial Park.
A century after his death, the facts are limited. At noon on Sunday, July 8, 1917, Thomson left his cabin to fish. That afternoon, Martin Blecher and his sister Bessie saw Thomsonā€™s canoe floating upside down as they motored on the lake. They did not stop to check it, saying they thought it was another canoe that had slipped its moorings.
On Tuesday, guide Mark Robinson was called in to search for the body. He and others checked portages and inlets for the following week.
Tom Thomson's guide license. He was an experienced woodsman.

Tom Thomsonā€™s guide license. He was an experienced woodsman.
The news of the missing artist spread rapidly. ā€œMr. Thomson is very well known here and everyone will hope that he will be found safe and well. The other alternative is not pleasant to consider but should it be found that he has been drowned, Canada will have lost one of her most accomplished landscape artists, and a thorough gentleman,ā€ wrote the Owens Sound Sun.
Thomsonā€™s body surfaced on Monday, July 16. Robinson and Dr. Goldwin Howland, of Toronto, examined it. They found a bruise on the left temple about four inches long, ā€œEvidently caused by falling on a Rock otherwise no marks of Violence on Body,ā€ wrote Robinson. The decomposing body was quickly buried at Canoe Lake.
One of the countless streams that form the roadways of Algonquin Provincial Park, a place that promises you backwoods peace and solitude.

One of the countless streams that form the roadways of Algonquin Provincial Park, a place that promises you backwoods peace and solitude.
On Tuesday, the coroner arrived from North Bay and assembled an inquest. ā€œThere is Considerable Adverse Comment regarding the taking of the Evidence among the Residents,ā€ Robinson wrote in his diary. Almost immediately, Thomsonā€™s family sent a steel coffin and requested that his body be exhumed and sent home to Leith, Ontario.
That is where the facts end. Even his final resting place in dispute, with one group of people saying the undertaker balked at exhuming his remains and sent an empty casket back instead. Thomson, they say, is buried at a secret spot near Canoe Lake.
Was it accidental drowning, as the coroner decided? Was it manslaughter, as Mark Robinson came to believe? Was it suicide?
Martin Blecher was 26 when he saw the overturned canoe. He was the son of German immigrants, a quarrelsome, alcoholic recluse who told people that he was a private detective employed by the William J. Burns International Detective Agency in Buffalo. Robinson, who listed local war deaths in his diary, believed Blecher was a German spy.
ā€œI had heard that there was some ill feeling between Tom and some man in that region [Mowat]. It was somewhat casually referred to by someone at Canoe Lake possibly one of the Rangers, but as this was while we were still looking for Tom and I was still hopeful of his safe recovery, I didnā€™t at the time attach any serious importance to the report,ā€ wrote Thomsonā€™s brother George.
Was the man Blecher or someone else? Daphne Crombie, who was in Mowat that spring, remembered, ā€œTom and Georgeā€¦theyā€™d had a party. They were all pretty good drinkers, Tom as well. Well, they went up and had this party. They were all tight and Tom asked Shannon Fraser for the money that he owed him because he had to go and get a new suitā€¦Anyway, they had a fight and Shannon hit Tom, you see, knocked him down by the grate fire, and he had a mark on his foreheadā€¦Annie [Fraser] told me all this and also Dr. MacCallum. Tom was completely knocked out by this fight. Of course, Fraser was terrified because he thought heā€™d killed him. This is my conception, and I donā€™t know about other peopleā€™s. My conception is that he took Tomā€™s body and put it into a canoe and dropped it in the lake. Thatā€™s how he died.ā€
Why did Thomson need a new suit? According to Annie Fraser, heā€™d gotten local woman Winnie Trainor pregnant and had to marry her. After Thomsonā€™s death, Trainor traveled to Philadelphia to stay with friends, and rumors persisted that she was pregnant. She never married and was protective of his reputation for the remainder of her life.
I started painting Lake Huron in the morning but was rained out. It was a windy whippy day; I'll finish this in the studio.

I started painting Lake Huron in the morning but was rained out. It was a windy, whippy day; Iā€™ll finish this in the studio.
Years later, Robinson elaborated on his finding of the body: ā€œHis fishing line was wound several times around his left ankle and broken off.  There was no sign of the rod, his Provisions and kit bag were in the front end of the Canoe when found. The lake was not Rough.ā€
ā€œā€œYou might interview Martin and Bessie Blecher but again be careful. They possibly know more about Tomā€™s sad end than any other person,ā€ he added darkly.
Even in Algonquin, solitude and peace are an illusion.

Someoneā€™s creeping on me.

The painting that appears in Buck Rack Lake, now in the private collection of novelist Jay Giess. By little ol’ me, of course.
Last month I was given a copy of Jay Giessā€™ new novel, Buck Rack Lake. It was inscribed ā€œFor Carol: see page 22, enjoy! Jay Giess.ā€ I dutifully turned to page 22
This opening scene is set in a modern version of an Adirondack Great Camp. A guest is speaking: ā€œā€˜None of us would be sitting here in this room,ā€™ he motioned with his right hand in an arc, pointing to the bookshelves, the windows crafted out of native oak, and the landscape by Carol L. Douglas, ā€œif we didnā€™t take risks. But there are good risks and there are bad risks. And this, Iā€™m sorry to say, is a very bad risk.ā€
Back before Jay gave up cubicle dwelling for the writerā€™s life, he collected art. Among the paintings in his house are several by yours truly. So I was amused but not totally shocked to see my work mentioned. (Perhaps he wanted to prop up the value of his investment.)
Beaver dam along the road to the camp where my son went; any resemblance is strictly coincidental, of course, because they all say they are trying to make ‘real men’ out of our boys. By little ol’ me, of course.
Iā€™ve got a fair amount of experience painting alone on rickety bridges or along lonesome trails in the Adirondack preserve and other back-of-beyond locations. Many painters wonā€™t do it, but I figure the risk is actually almost nil. But in the back of every solitary plein air painterā€™s mind is the realization that it would take only one lunatic to end an otherwise pleasant career. I tell myself the possibility is remote, but it somehow all seems more plausible when one is alone in a deserted mountain camp in the dead of winter, or the light suddenly fails along a lonely trail.
View of the lake from the hostelry where I taught in the Adirondacks. Now in a private collection. By little ol’ me, of course.
I never should have taken Buck Rack Lake to the hospital; it was just a little too scary and a little too familiar for a person quaffing narcotics. A beautiful, solitary hostelry on the edge of an Adirondack lake, furnished with Stickley antiquesā€”didnā€™t I just teach there a few years ago? A boysā€™ camp where the parents are discouraged from contacting their son while they do survivalist field tripsā€”didnā€™t my kid go there for years? Gravel roads leading to clapped out summer camps that might hide neo-Nazis or other species of lunaticā€”I can point you to any number of them. One of the characters even has the same French surname as my son-in-law.
And then I got to the end and laughed aloud. A wealthy woman from Rye (and I paint there every year, too) is killing time in the room mentioned above. ā€œShe looked at the painting over her right shoulder. It was an image of a river flowing out of the mountains, a very pleasant blend of blues, oranges and greens. She noted the name. Iā€™m going to have to find out more about this Douglas artist, she said to herself. Then she grabbed a copy of Adirondack Life from the coffee table and pretended to read.ā€
I know that painting well, and now you do too; itā€™s at the top of this post. Jayā€™s wife bought it for him for a gift years ago.
Canoes play a big part in Buck Rack Lake; here are the ones from the secluded lakeside hostelry where I taught and painted. Also now in a private collection. By little ol’ me, of course.
For the record, I swear I havenā€™t talked to Jay in quite a while; itā€™s all just coincidence. But more than that, Buck Rack Lake is a fun read: tightly plotted and lots of local color for anyone who loves the Adirondacks. My copy is no longer a pristine, signed first-edition; I found it gripping, so I gripped. I hope you enjoy it, and when you get to the end, you can tell yourself you know exactly what that painting looks like.


Let me know if youā€™re interested in painting with me in Maine in 2014 or Rochester at any time. Click here for more information on my Maine workshops!