Is this āThe Sound of Musicā or āGroundhog Dayā?
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Cliffs, by Carol L. Douglas, 12X16, available. |
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tale of woe from Peru validates our decision to ride out our quarantine here in El ChaltĆ©n. Whether the situation there is as dire as the Washington Post makes it sound, I donāt know, but the lead paragraphs are of all parties behaving badly. Our experience couldnāt be more different.
Buenos Aires is a city of 15 million people, where we would be burrs under the saddle of a nation struggling to keep its people safe. Here, we can be what we actually are: harmless painters. I have faith in the worldās economy (although I marvel at the speed at which itās become unhinged). An important part of that is air travel. Our international travel network will be back, adjusted for coronavirus. And then we will be home.
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Cowpath, by Carol L. Douglas, 9X12, available. |
Meanwhile, even the most peculiar circumstances become habitual when repeated. We eat breakfast together,
Kellee Mayfield takes our temperature, and then we scatter along the Rio Blanco to paint. Luncheon is purely
ad hoc; most of us, I think, are subsisting on caramels, apples, and the remains of a bag of potato chips. Like the Biblical loaves and fishes, those chips survive day after day. At 7:30 we gather for supper, which Cristina, Guillermo, Sergio and Pablo (the only remaining Argentines among us) conjure from supplies.
My husband faces a deadline, so heās working. It doesnāt matter to him whether heās in Maine or Patagonia; he can still teleconference and work with his computer in Rochester, NY.
Katie Cundiff is teaching her college classes at
Ringling online. She is seventy years old, but quickly adapting to the idea of teaching online. Every day,
Jane Chapin talks to Dahlia, her new BFF at the American Embassy in Buenos Aires. The time seems to drag for Alexander, who canāt work remotely and isnāt a painter. But weāve all settled into our routine. āItās like the movie āGroundhog Day,āā Kellee said.
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Cerro Electrico from the path to the National Park, by Carol L. Douglas, 11X14, available. |
Over the weekend, weāve developed a plan. It involves jerry-cans of gasoline and a seven-hour drive to Rio Gallegos, the capital of Santa Cruz Province, just as soon as weāve cleared quarantine.
There is just one gas station along the way. This being rural Argentina, it may or may not be open. Against that possibility, Guillermo will supply us with gas, which weāll stow in Kelleeās car before we leave. āIf you can fill up, then leave the cans for someone else,ā he said. Thatās only one way in a thousand that Guillermo and Cristina have demonstrated their wonderful kindness.
I have one reservation: my scruples have not yet eroded to the point of stealing a car, especially from someone as kind-hearted as Sebastian from Avis. We really must clear this with him first. āI will call,ā said Cristina. āBut it can wait until Monday.ā Panic? None of that here.
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Rio Blanco, by Carol L. Douglas, 9X12, available. |
Today, Guillermo will teach us how to pour from a jerry-can into a gas tank in the inevitable high winds of Patagonia. Apparently, this involves using a one-liter soda bottle as a funnel, but the aperture is cut on the side, not the top. The tires on these cars are nothing to write home about, but each of them has a full-size spare. As weāre leaving at 4 AM, there will need to be a wingman watching for vicuƱa. They inhabit the biological niche of white-tailed deer in the US: roadkill. āDrive down the middle of the road and follow the line,ā said Guillermo.
A note from a friend in the United States gave me calculations on how much toilet paper is necessary to survive quarantine. According to Georgia-Pacific, a 2-person household will need about nine double rolls for 14 days. We are using nowhere near that much. We can’t flush toilet paper here; the septic system isnāt up to it. (This is no surprise; there is very little topsoil here, just glacial till and granite outcropping.) Used tissue goes in a small, lined receptacle that is emptied daily. It’s amazing how much that cuts one’s consumption.
Water, however, is not a problem. There is a cistern at the top of the hill. It serves to pressurize the water system, exactly the same way a water tower works in a city. After inspecting the cistern and marveling at the ingenuity of running plastic lines up the hillside, we set up to paint. There are spectacular views of several peaks and glaciers. On a clear day, you can see to Chile. I couldnāt help it; I broke out into song. The hills are alive with the Sound of Music.