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On the edge of civilization

"McDonald Creek," by Carol L. Douglas

ā€œMcDonald Creek,ā€ by Carol L. Douglas
Iā€™ve seen Maryā€™s headache, malaise, and swollen neck before. Her older sister had mononucleosis in college and looked and acted the same way. When Maryā€™s tonsils started to swell, I decided to make quick time to a medical clinic at Ft. Nelson, BC.
Three minutes and $70 later, Mary exited with a scrip for penicillin. No blood tests, no swabs; the doctor took a quick look in her mouth and announced it was tonsillitis. Penicillin wonā€™t hurt the girl and might actually help, so we had it filled. Mono is untreatable anyway.
Mary took a nap in the sun while I painted.

Mary took a nap in the sun while I painted.
My husband asked why I didnā€™t see the doctor myself, since Iā€™m still hacking. I just have a cold, I answered. For less than the cost of penicillin, I can rinse my mouth with Alberta rye whiskey. If it doesnā€™t cure me, at least I wonā€™t mind so much.
Fort Nelson is on the east slope of the Rockies. It seems positively cosmopolitan compared to where weā€™ve been. Some women have tri-colored highlights in their hair, all in the same gingery tones. That, I presume, implies a beautician in town. There is clothing other than camouflage, although the Super 8 where weā€™re staying does have a sign asking visitors to remove their muddy boots.
Trail riders are a common site in northern British Columbia.

Trail riders are a common site in northern British Columbia.
Hayfields and buildings appear sporadically along the road into town. The tree cover looks more familiar to my eastern eyes. Mixed forests of predominantly deciduous trees cover the lower slopes.
Today we will follow the Alaska Highway to its starting point at Dawson Creek. This will take us down into the prairie land of Peace River Country. This area was explored during Sir Alexander MacKenzieā€™s journeys of 1789 and 1792-3. The latter was the first east-west crossing of North America north of Mexico, preceding the Lewis and Clark expedition by 10 years.
Like so many great American explorers, MacKenzieā€™s goal was to find a water route across the continentā€”the fabled Northwest Passage that beguiled the Vikings, CortĆ©s, Sir Francis Drake, John Cabot, Henry Hudson, LaSalle, and so many others. MacKenzie, however, managed to reach all three great oceans that surround Canada, and his explorations took him on the longest possible route, for the continent grows wider as it goes north.
My main companions yesterday were bears, not hoofed things. It's almost time to hibernate.

My main companions yesterday were bears, not hoofed things. Itā€™s almost time to hibernate.
Our prairie time will be briefly interrupted with a slight detour into Banff and Jasper National Parks this weekend. After that, Iā€™m hoping to make better time. A flatter road will be nicer on the old hooptie, which seems to have sprung another exhaust leak. Poor old thing. Iā€™m not sure whoā€™s suffering more, the car or Mary. Iā€™ll push the liquids at both of them.

Little bear

"Tamarack bog," by Carol L. Douglas

ā€œTamarack bog,ā€ by Carol L. Douglas
While painting the bogs along the boardwalk to Liard Hot Springs in British Columbia, I was interrupted by a park vehicle that needed to pass. The driver and I peered at each other and realized weā€™d met last year. Heā€™d given us a ride back from the hot springs in the middle of the night, stopping to check for bears frequently along the way.
ā€œGood thing he did,ā€ his brother told me. In 1997, a bear attacked four people at the hot springs. Two died and two were horrifically injured before the animal was shot. The park remains a hot-spot for bear-human interaction, and this year was particularly hard. When the blueberries are bad, the bears come down the mountain and enter the human areas of the park. The average tourist is clueless about bears, as I was reminded when I saw them exiting their cars to take photos of bears on the side of the road.

A black bear looking for clover in the Liard River Basin. ā€œBears are like hairy pigs,ā€ a naturalist told me. ā€œTheyā€™ll eat anything.ā€
These are not our eastern black bears. ā€œPeople tell me that they saw a ā€˜littleā€™ bear,ā€ the park worker told me, ā€œand when theyā€™re trapped they turn out to be 350 pounds. Thatā€™s 350 pounds of muscles, claws and teeth.ā€
Right now, they have the bears pretty well cleared out of the area, but theyā€™ll inevitably be back. The park is full of warning signs about them (ā€œA fed bear is a dead bearā€) and instructions on what to do if you encounter one.
The Liard River basin is known for its wandering herds of bison. They own the road, and this big bull was disinclined to let us pass.

The Liard River basin is known for its wandering herds of bison. They own the road, and this big bull was disinclined to let us pass.
The brothers are busy with chainsaws and weed-whackers, cutting the brush back from the boardwalk. That cuts down on surprise encounters.
Even though this is by far the best hot spring Iā€™ve ever visited, Iā€™ll never walk down to it in the middle of the night again. And in fact I didnā€™t visit it yesterday, either. Instead, I set up on the boardwalk to paint the tamaracks turning color along the bog.
Tamaracks, or larches, are deciduous conifers. They shed their needles in the fall.

Tamaracks, or larches, are deciduous conifers. They shed their needles in the fall.
In the east, we call this tree a larch; either name is correct. Although conifers, larches are also deciduous, meaning they lose their needles in autumn. Iā€™ve been watching the spruces give way to them as weā€™ve traveled east. Their yellow is a more delicate color than the blazing golds of birch and aspen.
Watson Lake's signpost forest was started in 1942 and now has over 70,000 signs from all over the world.

West of Liard River is Watson Lake. Its signpost forest was started in 1942 and now has over 70,000 signs from all over the world.
There are two more subjects in this part of the world Iā€™d like to capture. One is the vastness of wildfire; the other is the color of water containing rock flour. Being ill, I havenā€™t done justice to this part of the trip. So I plan to backtrack today, toward Muncho Lake and the fast-moving waters of the Toad River.

Follow my painting adventure across Canada

Last August I drove across Canada and the US to Alaska. This was not primarily a painting trip. I painted only a few watercolors from the passenger seat. However, the journeyā€”remote, fantastical and very wildā€”fired a desire to do a real painting trip across Canada.
This morning Iā€™m flying to Anchorage to start this dream painting trip. My wingman is my daughter Mary. Weā€™ll be traveling in a fairly ancient Suzuki SUV. How this trip will pan out depends on a number of factors: the roads, the weather, and our endurance. Yes, there will be bears.
Iā€™m bringing 65 canvases. I could finish them all, or a bear could steal my easel. Thereā€™s just no telling.
Weā€™ll be driving the northernmost route that is possible this time of year. We have sleeping bags, winter clothes and bathing suits, just in case we find a hot spring.I plan to post as frequently as possible, but internet is spotty way back of beyond. How can you be sure to keep up? Subscribe to my Bangor Daily News blog (not any more, subscribe on the right!), and you will get my dispatches as soon as I file them.

Did I mention there will be bears?